
Existe un
consenso generalizado acerca del papel predominante del Vino Malbec Argentino. Por diversas razones, las bodegas
argentinas lideran actualmente el mercado internacional de este varietal. La
preponderancia de esta uva dentro de la industria vitivinícola argentina es
clara, basada en estadísticas de producción que no ofrecen ningún tipo de
dudas. El reconocimiento internacional obtenido por el Malbec producido en suelos
argentinos, ha situado a esta variedad como estandarte indiscutido de los vinos
argentinos comercializados en el resto del mundo. Por este motivo, nos gustaría
contextualizar un éxito construido sobre razones históricas, geográficas y un
gran sentido de la oportunidad.
La historia original de esta cepa admite tres versiones contrapuestas. La primera sugiere que esta uva integrante del grupo de las denominadas “Cots”, junto a la Tannat y la Petit Verdot, habría arribado a tierras francesas proveniente del comercio impulsado por el Imperio Romano desde la actual Italia. La segunda versión indica que estas uvas tendrían su procedencia en antiguos cultivos ubicados sobre las riberas del rio Rhin, el mismo que atraviesa el norte de la frontera franco alemana en la actualidad. Finalmente, la tercera versión histórica acerca del origen de la cepa Malbec, sitúa su cuna en la antigua provincia francesa de Quercy, contigua a Cahors, en los Pirineos del sudoeste francés.
Lo realmente cierto es que el cultivo de las uvas “Cots” ganaron protagonismo en la citada zona de Cahors, y en particular la uva Malbec que ahora nos interesa, surgida del cruzamiento entre las castas Magdeleine Noir de Charantes (uva de mesa) y Prunelard N (antigua cepa de la zona de Galliac). También sabemos que en tiempos de la Galia Romana los vinos producidos en la región pirenaica de Cahors gozaban de un gran respeto.
Ya en tiempos medievales, la unión de las coronas franco británicas facilitó el arribo de los vinos franceses a tierras inglesas, entre los que destacaban los producidos en Cahors. Pero el Malbec no obtuvo su gran espaldarazo hasta ser introducido en la corte del rey francés a mediados del siglo XIV. A partir de ese momento, este vino vivió su gran esplendor, convirtiéndose en el preferido de la realeza de toda Europa, incluyendo a los Zares de Rusia, que eran fervientes aficionados al Malbec.
La edad dorada del Malbec se vio súbitamente interrumpida en el siglo XIX, cuando fuera boicoteado por los productores de Burdeos, que supieron imponer sus productos en los mercados de exportación, desplazando a nuestro querido Malbec. Este cambio de tendencia obligó a muchos productores a reemplazar esta cepa por otras que ofrecieran mejores resultados, como el Merlot o el Cabernet Sauvignon. Finalmente, la plaga Filoxera casi extingue por completo a la cepa Malbec en suelo francés.
En coincidencia con este declive europeo del Malbec, las autoridades chilenas y el político argentino Domingo Sarmiento se mostraron muy interesados, alrededor del año 1840, en la introducción de esta cepa en los suelos andinos. Más bien se podría decir que aprobaron la propuesta del ingeniero agrónomo francés Michel Aimé Pouget, quien en 1853 dirigió un proyecto financiado por el gobierno de Sarmiento en tierras de la provincia argentina de Mendoza. Enseguida, el francés se percató que estos suelos eran ideales para el desarrollo de esta cepa, obteniendo mejores resultados que en la misma Cahors.
El avance del Malbec en Mendoza resultó imparable. Esta cepa acabó siendo sencilla de convertir en vino, resistente a las pestes y con una maduración homogénea. Pronto, se convirtió en el varietal preferido por los productores de la región cuyana, y no tardaría en ganar nuevos territorios al norte y al sur de estos suelos tan generosos para el cultivo de la vid.
Actualmente, el Malbec Argentino es cultivado a lo largo de toda la extensa región andina, de norte a sur del país. Según los expertos, la uva consigue adaptarse muy bien a cada suelo y su particular clima, obteniendo así vinos muy diversos entre sí.
La producción actual de Malbec en Argentina es la más importante y cuantiosa a nivel mundial, llegando a sextuplicar las hectáreas de cultivo dedicadas a esta cepa en Francia (segundo productor). Actualmente, esta uva tiene difusión a nivel mundial, y debemos destacar que también se obtienen vinos Malbec de calidad excelente en suelos de Italia, España, Sudáfrica, Nueva Zelanda y Estados Unidos (California).
Entre las características básicas del Malbec Argentino habría que destacar su intenso color violáceo, perdurable durante varios años puesto en botella. En comparación con el Malbec francés producido en Cahors, el argentino es más suave y con menos taninos. Con notorias reminiscencias frutadas, el Malbec Argentino recuerda a fresas, cerezas, ciruelas, pasas de uva y pimienta negra, una vez descorchado. Ya en el paladar, es mucho más suave que el francés, resulta cálido y dulce.
Podríamos referenciar tres claras regiones diferenciadas en el cultivo del Malbec Argentino. La más tradicional es la mendocina, extensible al resto de tierras cuyanas, ubicada en el centro de la región andina argentina. El Malbec producido en Mendoza, en la zona del Valle de Uco (Tupungato, Tunuyán y San Carlos), está considerado como el varietal más atractivo, poseedor de unas notas frutadas y especiadas muy elegantes. En esta región se plantaron los esquejes originales procedentes de Cahors a mediados del siglo XIX, y es donde residen las bodegas con mayor tradición vitivinícola de Argentina.
En el norte argentino, los cultivos en suelos de Salta o Catamarca, expuestos a un sol perenne y alturas más pronunciadas, se produce un Malbec con taninos más sólidos y un sabor más dulce. La uva morada obtiene un gran rendimiento también en estas condiciones. Algo similar podríamos afirmar de los suelos más australes, en las provincias patagónicas de Neuquén y Rio Negro. Con un clima mucho más frío y a menor altura que en el norte, el Malbec producido en esta región ofrece notas frutales más acentuadas y un notorio acento mineral, producto tal vez de la mayor acidez concentrada en las bayas.
Con una gran variedad de texturas y sabores, el Malbec Argentino es el máximo reclamo de la producción de las bodegas locales en el mercado internacional. Así como sucede con el Syrah australiano, el Tannat uruguayo, el Carmenere chileno, el Pinotage sudafricano, el Zinfandel californiano o el Tempranillo español, el Malbec Argentino se ha convertido en un verdadero emblema de la producción de su país.
Consagrados y reconocidos por unanimidad como los mejores vinos Malbec que se producen en la actualidad, prácticamente todas las bodegas argentinas participan en este mercado. Teniendo en cuenta este dato, resulta muy complejo recomendar alguna botella en especial dentro de una producción tan cuantiosa, no obstante, nos atreveremos a destacar en este pequeño listado, a los Malbec Argentinos que puedes comprar en las tiendas gourmet del mercado español: Etchart, Kauzo Estates, Norton, Rutini Wines, Salentein, Trapiche, La Mascota, Séptima, Catena Zapata, Familia Zuccardi, Fin del Mundo, Flichman, Luigi Bosca, Marcelo Pelleriti, Lagarde, Benjamín Nieto o Valentín Bianchi, entre otras bodegas prestigiosas que embotellan excelentes ejemplos del afamado Malbec Argentino.
Como dato final, el Malbec Argentino marida de manera inmejorable con las carnes asadas. El fuerte carácter de este vino resulta especialmente indicado para acompañar un buen asado preparado al estilo argentino. Probablemente, una combinación irresistible.
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merci pour le partage
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